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2014年6月23日 星期一

如何檢查鑽石戒指上的鑽石是否穩固?

鑽石戒指只有幾支類似迷你金棒,像金屬爪的東西能緊緊固定鑽石在戒指上嗎? 鑽石會鬆脫嗎? 有方法檢查嗎? 讓我們一一為您解答!

鑲嵌鑽石的方法有六種-槽鑲、共齒鑲、釘鑲、爪鑲、包鑲和逼鑲。當中爪鑲是最常用,用3爪、4爪 或6鑽石牢牢固定在鑲台上。由於使用的金屬部較少,鑽石被遮擋的位置亦相對較少,因此光線能從四面八方入射及反射,展現出最大程度的光學效果。這優點讓爪鑲成為訂婚鑽戒中最受歡迎的款色。

4爪、6爪的鑲嵌方法雖然只有數個支點把鑽石扣住,但只要鑲工優秀,鑽石便能非常穩固地被鑲嵌在戒台上,不容易鬆脫。當然,戒爪的金屬勞損是有機會影響鑽石的穩固程度。因此Bee’s Diamonds建議你選用堅硬的金屬,如18K金,,令戒指爪不容易鬆脫。相反, Platinum白金950的韌性和延展性很強,建議不要使用Platinum白金950來鑲嵌細微的部分和名貴的鑽石主石。白金也會容易在日常穿戴時磨損或撕裂,亦可能與堅硬的表面接觸時被刮花

配戴首飾期間,應避免游泳或進行其他劇烈運動,以減低首飾因碰撞,磨擦而產生的損毀。要知道戒指上的鑽石是否穩固方法有兩個: 第一,可以用手輕輕觸碰鑽石,檢視鑽石有否搖動,如有輕微搖動,即表示鑽石並不穩固。第二,可利用一張紙,嘗試把紙張到戒爪和鑽石之間(即戒爪與鑽石接觸的位置),如果能把紙張入,表示鑲嵌並不完美,鑽石有機會鬆脫或移位。如發現鑽石搖動或戒爪變形,必須送往修理,避免繼續佩帶,以免遺失這戒指的主角。第三,穿戴首飾時,請先檢驗: 鉤子鑲嵌沒有鬆脫的情況和鑽石鑲嵌沒有鬆脫的情況。您可以把首飾貼近耳朵,輕輕搖動以確保沒有鑽石鬆脫。假若您聽到有聲音,鑽石可能有鬆脫。請立即把首飾帶回檢查及修理。


除了以上三個方法外,使用放大鏡來進行檢查也是相當有效的。放大鏡把鑲嵌的細節放大,讓你能清楚檢視鑲嵌情況,此方法不單適用於爪鑲,其他鑲嵌方式同樣合適。如包鑲和槽鑲,可以此檢查包邊或槽位是否平均,有沒有缺口,若金屬邊有缺口或不均情況,應送往珠寶店進行進一步檢查及維修。

在存放首飾前,請獨立存放首飾於專用首飾盒內,避免它們互相磨擦。避免在沒有保護情況下,存放多於一件首飾於同一首飾盒內。雖然鑽石是全世界最堅硬的礦物,但若它脆弱的角度受到撞擊觸碰,都能導致鑽石損毀!

想知道爪鑲中4爪還是6爪戒指托較安全? 敬請留意我們日後的文章!

如果想了解更多有關如何選擇鑽石或戒指設計,請聯絡Bee's Diamonds。本公司提供專業的鑽石詢服務,歡迎電郵或電話查詢。電郵:info@beesdiamonds.com 或電話 (852) 2180 7812. 

2014年6月22日 星期日

How to check if a diamond is securely and snuggly mounted on a ring?

Have you ever wondered why a diamond can be securely and snuggly mounted onto a ring with just a few claws? How can you check whether a diamond has become loose? Let us address your concerns with our gemological knowledge and experience.

There are multiple ways of mounting a diamond (or commonly referred to as, setting a diamond on a ring). The most common settings at all times are: channel setting, bezel setting, prong setting, drill setting and pave setting. Prong setting is the most commonly used, highly secure setting. Using 3, 4 or 6 prongs, a diamond can be securely mounted on a ring. As the structure of prong setting allows more light to go through and into a diamond, its brilliance and fire can be brought out through the play of light scintillation. That explains why the most classic and most popular engagement ring style usually features the famous prong setting.


Choice of Metal
Even though only 4 or 6 prongs are used to set a diamond in a ring, it can still be securely mounted if the craftsmanship is exquisite. Of course, prongs are susceptible to usual wear and tear like any other metals, but with the right use of metal and self-checking methods, you can be an expert in identifying whether a diamond has become loose from the ring. 

We recommend using 18K gold. Don’t mistaken 18K gold as the traditional typical yellow type of gold. 18K Gold jewellery can appear in white (silvery), black, purple, blue or even rose-colours. It is most commonly seen in white gold because of its strength to withstand normal wear and tear due to its rhodium plating which is extremely hard and it minimizes the jewellery’s vulnerability to scratches.

Platinum, often known as PT950, is a dense, malleable, ductile precious, gray-white transition metal. Although platinum is hard in nature, it is also extremely ductile and malleable which is not recommended for setting jewellery with refined details or with a valuable center diamond. Platinum is also vulnerable to daily wear and tear and can be susceptible to scratches resulted from constant contacts with hard surfaces.

Checking Methods
Treat your diamond ring as any other piece of fine jewellery, which should not be worn to rigorous sporting activities like swimming, racquet sports, etc. This can significantly reduce the risk of damages that may occur from excessive contacts of hard surface. There are three methods to know whether a diamond has become loose from its prongs.
1.    Touch and Feel!
You can gently touch and feel a diamond with the tips of your fingers to feel whether it has become loose from any of the prongs. If there is any slight movement, it is imperative that you bring the ring to fix immediately. 

2.    Slip it through!
If you are still not sure whether the diamond is loose, try slipping a piece of regular paper into the space between the tip of the prong and the diamond. If the paper can easily slip through that tiny little gap, your ring may be prone to movements.  At this stage, the diamond may not have come loose yet, but it is best that you bring the ring to a reliable jewellery to have it checked.

3.    Shake! Shake! Shake!
The easiest method to check whether a diamond is becoming loose is to shake it three times against your ears closely. If you hear some twinkling sounds, the diamond may have come loose from the ring. Stop wearing the ring immediately and have it check by a jewellery for quickest solutions.

Other than the three methods mentioned above, using a microscope or a magnification loupe is the most comprehensive method to check whether a diamond has indeed become loose. For instance, magnification loupes can identify whether a diamond is loosening from its bezel set and channel set where it is not easy to test its stability using the stated methods above. Another important piece of take away is not to store your jewellery together in unprotected environment with other pieces. Always baggage each piece of jewellery with at least a small plastic bag to avoid damages of the prongs.

Want to know whether a 4 prongs or 6 prongs ring mount is more secured? Stay tuned for other future blog posts. For more information, please visit our website at www.beesdiamonds.com